Because everyone loves to hate Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent collections, let’s take a moment to see what gets all that negativity in motion!
Since his debut in fashion, Yves Saint Laurent had a controversial trajectory – by which I’m not implying that he made it to fashion stardomness through intricately braided backdoors but that his fashion life was a succession of head spinning heaven-high ups and abyssal lows. And although the house of Yves Saint Laurent ceased to exist for over 11 years, the controversy karma follows Saint Laurent’s namesake brand at any place and any time.
Hopefully, Hedi Slimane has a strong spine and a healthy perspective on himself and everything around him and he won’t feel as disappointed as the grand Saint Laurent felt as a direct result of how the world received and saw him and his creations.
Basically, Slimane isn’t doing anything Yves Saint Laurent hasn’t done before him: he shortened his name when he took the creative helm of Christian Dior to Saint Laurent just as Slimane shortened the name of the brand to just Saint Laurent when he took over it (again) as creative.
He’s designing for the young generation, just like Yves was designing for the young generation of his time (the Beatnik). He’s trying to democratize fashion just like Yves was the very pioneer who brought couture to people disguised as pret-a-porter.
Slimane is equally loved and worn by the contemporary young generation just as Yves was in his active years. Last but not least: everyone loves to hate Slimane’s collection for Saint Laurent. Just like they did back when Yves was still designing for the maison. But there will always be faithful supporters and loyal customers to assure the continuity of Yves’s legacy.
Back to the Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2014 collection per se which was less grunge-y than the previous one but equally a scandal magnet. Sequins and kitten heels, one shouldered dresses and smoking suits, it’s all there.
Slimane is working on a legendary base for the maison Yves Saint Laurent created playing with the iconic shapes and patterns, ideas and fashion concepts in his efforts to democratize and rejuvenate.
More specifically – he’s suggesting kitten heels for spring summer 2014. Classic pumps, tied around the ankle or laced up metallic booties, they all look like a tween’s first high heeled shoes. Almost every look has pockets for young nervous people to tuck their hands into.
A lot of black and collegiate-like looks offer a halo of deja-vu to this new Spring Summer 2014 Saint Laurent collection (how many times can he put ‘Le Smoking’ on the catwalk and pretend it’s new?). The only novelty to this fashion show does not rely on the clothes but on the people. The models who walked the show and the new customers. Other than that, it’s overpretentiously expensive fashion that you can find in most of the fast fashion boutiques. (images courtesy styledotcom)
I feel to old to wear this collection, I’m not even 30.
lol Diyana ! <3 it's for the young and the hip, what do we know? ;)
What’s wrong with girls to feel old when you’re not even 30? The media’s influence is really destructive for women’s self esteem. Don’t let them get to you Diyana, you are a gorgeous young, YOUNG woman. Duh!
Yves Saint Laurent design’s were actually wearable and easy to translate for any age. Hedi Slimene’s not. That’s why I don’t like this collection. It’s so limited and all done before.
I own black pants like that. Old me weas black pants like that. Cheaper, that’s clear. But the kitten heels? Welcome back cute pretty, feminine heels. Goodbye to the torture heels!! ;)
I dont dislike Hedi because it is a trend. I dont even hate him. He is kind of “too weak “to be hated, kind of he doesnt deserve my hate.
I dislike his work at SLParis.
“He’s trying to democratize fashion …” in which way ? The prices are astronomical for the young generation and his “design” has been there since the 90ies. Perhaps if he does a colaboration with HM I could agree with you.
He is an elitist in an ivory tower. Arrogant and pretentious.
I don’t hate or dislike Slimane either. I didn’t even bother to watch his show. Waste of time.
ana, are you familiar with Fiorucci? It’s since long time not what it once was anymore. But it was great late 70s and early 80s. There was only one shop in Amsterdam. In the 80s I owned three pairs of the cutest Fiorucci kitten heels. Two pair of sandals and one pair pump-like. Looked like the 50/60s vintage ones I bought on the flea market. I so wish I still had them. And I did own a pair of great kitten heels ankle booties by Dr. Adams. Brands that were big in those days just as Benneton with fashion girls and women. It was not mass production. Not yet. These shoes I talk about were mega-expensive to me.
I do still own a Benneton jumper in good shape bought in 1988 in Antwerp. Twenty five years old! This all came to my mind just looking at these kitten heels.
Yes, Slimane is great for H&M mass production. Good point. But overall I think that Hedi Slimane is not the only one living in a ivory tower. Or is arrogant. He must sell because he still has job. No numbers, no job. Right?
YES!!! Fiorucci was the quintessence of luxury and coolness in my teen years. I owned a T shirt and a pair of jeans, only. It was mega expensive for me as well. I remember my mother telling me that ” if i had to earn that amount of money i wouldnt spend it soo freely” , the very same argument I use with my daughters now, mind you.
Slimane is not the only one, certainly not. Karl and Miuccia are surely there as well. ” my work is ART, dont dare to criticise it “.. and now Kane West is back… just wait for the oceans of delusion and arrogance
I know by fact S L Paris is in red numbers ( for clothing) right now. It is selling a LOT of shoes and bags.
I only reference ‘democracy’ in relation with Slimane’s work at Saint Laurent because in his debut years, Yves himself liberated fashion – somewhat – of the couture strains. Fashion sometimes seems so complicated and intricate that changing it for (almost too) wearable is a nice alternative.
However, the prices are ridiculous! Mega inflated just because they have this huge label behind some silly ordinary designs. Pfff. I liked the clean photography he practiced, though. That’s one of the ‘democratization’ principles as well – less can be more. In some ways.
ana, I love it that you so often understand what I say, love, like :)
I respect your opinions about as well fashion as sometimes ‘personal’ matters. Like you describe above. :)
Fiorucci has gone, well, it’s still there but not what it once was. But that name still makes me smile.
Thanks for the info which does not surprise me at all. My love for great clothes will never die until I die. But I’m so over all the indeed arrogance and delusional ‘art’. Prêt-à-Porter aka Ready-to-Wear was never meant to be ‘art’ like that.
Take care with all that work ana. Wishing you well and hopes you find the time now and then to share your thoughts. :)
Thanks a lot Appollonia. For sure we will keep in touch. I love our chats as well.
Loving the shoe collections! Xx
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