Ghosts of Couture glorious past were revived and released on the catwalk on January 12th 2015 when John Galliano returned to us. Fashion needed him. We needed him!
We had a very sartorially shy Galliano in his first collection for Margiela. Spring 2015 Couture, although masterfully executed and playfully conceived, was still restrained. Although undoubtedly the best choice for the Maison that changed its creative director and its name (becoming Maison Margiela from Maison Martin Margiela), Galliano has to struggle back to its old, fun couture ways!
The extravaganza, the provocative perspective, the out-of-the-ordinary approach of fashion is what we missed. On January 12th, we still haven’t satisfied our thirst of everything Galliano! The new, severe, serious, almost dramatic aesthetic he opted for when designing the Spring Summer 2015 Haute Couture Maison Margiela collection is – hopefully – something that can pass. With each season.
Decostructive and subversive, the Margiela fashion credo has always been the ground stone of the enigmatic Maison. Galliano himself, although flamboyant and extrovert, has proven to be a complete mystery when he launched in his infamous 2011 drunken declarations. Rehabbed and returned, let’s hope John Galliano is more than the shadow of the Fashion Genius he used to be! Renzo Rosso, founder of Diesel and President of OTB, the Maison’s mother corporation, trusted Galliano with the group’s errant label. He trusted John would not only keep it together but also make it flourish.
So far, he managed to revisit the house’s signature looks – long sleeves, reinvented items with exterior seams, it was all there! Where was the protest? The rebellion against all fashion luxuries? We trust you, John Galliano! It’s time you trust yourself again! Bring that scenic style beast out and perform that seduction game you once claimed it was your motivation! Forget the crippling reconsideration that had you looking for a new fashion home out of Dior, into de la Renta and now to Margiela!
Stay and Seduce us! (images Indigitalimages via style.com)
UPDATE: Everything I suspected about Galliano is confirmed by this picture taken at the end of his Spring 2015 Couture Show for Maison Margiela! A too-sobered-up Galliano appeared, in a white lab coat, just like Margiela wore, making a very brief appearance, like rehearsing the Belgian designer’s legendary discretion (Margiela never came out at the end of his shows, he was fiercely discrete). Maybe that’s where Galliano is heading? I’d be perfectly fine with that as long as he delivered real fashion, not the shadow of a once magnificent designer! Thank you so much Adriana for looking it up and bringing it to us! Truly a rare gem!